Matera and Puglia
Matera above and below
In Apulia, DS Journeys takes you to Matera. The city of the Sassi (rocks), a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993, is itself a bridge. It connects the past and the present and sits between below and above. Contrasting the cave houses carved down into the limestone rock are the stone masterpieces that stand out above ground, in a mix of awe and wonder. The Sasso Barisano and Sasso Caveoso, the two historic districts of Matera, guard secrets that fade into the mists of time. The rock churches, adorned with beautiful sacred frescoes, resonate with the prayers of pilgrims who have found refuge and solace here. Walking through the Sassi (the natural set of Mel Gibson‘s film “The Passion of the Christ”), one immerses oneself in a maze of emotions, caught between the sacredness of the places and the profane and pure beauty of nature. However, Matera is not just ancient history. The city, European Capital of Culture in 2019, looks towards the future without forgetting its roots, especially its culinary ones. It is known for its simple yet flavorful dishes, high-quality local products such as crusco peppers, lamb meat, and bread, along with recipes passed down through the generations. The artisan workshops, with their products, narrate the skill of the masters who work with tuff, terracotta, and wood, offering objects and experiences where past and present merge in a harmonious embrace.
The Apulia of cities
The journey through Apulia as a bridge between cultures begins in Bari, known as the “Gateway to the East.” In its ancient part, “Bari Vecchia” is a maze of narrow alleys where folklore and tradition bring the inviting aroma of handmade orecchiette with turnip greens, an iconic dish. After a delicious break with the typical focaccia (soft, tall, garnished with fresh cherry tomatoes and olives), we approach the Basilica of San Nicola, which made the city an important religious bridge uniting East and West. Not far away is the Swabian Castle, the iconic building of Bari, an imposing fortress now a museum. Finally, for a relaxing stroll, we find ourselves on the waterfront where the most beautiful buildings in the city overlook, along with a row of typical restaurants that will leave you delighted. Staying in the Bari area, in Locorotondo, we are immersed in a charming – and of course round- labyrinth that you’ll never want to leave. There are white streets, wrought iron balconies, Baroque architecture, and the cummerse which are rectangular houses with sloping roofs that, with an architectural trompe-l’œil, transport us to Northern Europe.
Continuing along the Bari coast, perched on a cliff riddled with sea caves, we discover Polignano a Mare, the birthplace of Domenico Modugno. Modugno, of course, is famous for the song “Volare,” the most sung Italian refrain in the world. Wandering through the narrow streets of the old town, which was once the Jewish ghetto, you can enjoy breathtaking views especially from the Ponte Borbonico. Get lost among artisan workshops or take a dip at the beach of Lama Monachile. Another “White City” known for its lime-covered houses, Ostuni enchants us with its picturesque alleys and beautiful beaches. Then there’s Brindisi, which pampers us with its charming port (a significant trade base with Greece and the East), its historical monuments, and its typical culinary delights. Among them are purpetti e brascioli meatballs in sauce, previously fried, and stuffed meat rolls. Noteworthy for its elegance is Lecce, the city of famous Baroque architecture, and the vibrant cultural hub of Salento. It boasts papier-mâché artisan workshops, renowned cuisine like tria (pasta with chickpeas), and exquisite desserts like pasticciotto (shortcrust pastry filled with cream). Within its enchanting historic center – adorned with sumptuous doorways, majestic churches, elegant palaces, and balconies – we wander aimlessly, gazing upwards. Perhaps at sunset the sun will become benevolent (not just in temperature) and its warm light ignites the monuments and, by contagion of ecstasy, our hearts as well.
The Puglia of sun and wind: from the Valle d’Itria to Salento
In the region of Puglia, beyond its fascinating cities, the territory itself holds surprises and references to different worlds. We start with Alberobello, a regional flag known worldwide for its trulli. Trulli are ancient cone-shaped stone houses dating back to the 17th century (now a UNESCO World Heritage site) with a unique and unrepeatable charm. Alberobello is the beating heart of the Valle d’Itria, with its typical dry-stone walls (also a UNESCO World Heritage site) adorning a landscape rich in centuries-old olive groves, vineyards, and wheat fields. In Salento, the sea is felt even in the wind. The enchanting medieval architecture, the delicious Mediterranean diet, and genuine hospitality welcome us to a typical Adriatic coast landscape. Here there are beaches such as San Foca (a picturesque fishing village with crystal-clear waters); Torre dell’Orso (famous for its imposing limestone cliffs), Torre Sant’Andrea (with its natural rock pools), Gallipoli, overlooking the Ionian Sea, is rich in historical and artistic heritage. Its historic center is on an island linked to the mainland by a bridge. The jewel that is Otranto displays the majestic Cathedral of Santa Maria Annunziata and the Aragonese Castle that welcome us to the Middle Ages. Otranto invites us to relaxing walks along cobbled streets in search of restaurants offering local seafood dishes like baccalà alla salentina and coppo di paranza (small fried fish in light batter). In this colorful Puglian tapestry, the gastronomic offering is like a palette of flavors: strong, identity-rich, and deeply rooted in the region’s agricultural traditions. It all starts with extra virgin olive oil, best savored by drizzling it over Altamura DOP bread, a product of centuries-old tradition. This bread also pairs well with cheeses crafted with centuries of cheese-making mastery. This is the zone of the famous burrata, a fresh stretched-curd cheese filled with cream and stracciatella. Adding to this culinary experience is the ruby-red Negroamaro wine, the most famous wine from Salento, which, along with Primitivo di Manduria and Salice Salentino, embodies the highly esteemed wine production in the region.
